Retinols really are the next best thing since sliced bread when it comes to anti ageing skincare well after SPF that is! it was Dr Albert Kigman who first discovered it’s amazing benefits back in 1986 and since then there has been over 700 clinical papers published supporting its beneficial effects on ageing and acne. Over 40 years of established research now exists on retinol’s ability to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, pore size and appearance, improve skin tone and texture and improve the symptoms associated with acne.

Retinol skincare products work as an exfoliators but not as we would usually expect, instead of removing dead skin cells from the surface of our skin it speeds up our cellular turnover, which dramatically starts to slow down as we age. Pushing new younger cells to the surface forcing the older ones to shed more rapidly.

Results can be seen in as little as 6-8 weeks.

Retinol derives from vitamin A and is part of the retinoid family. Within our skin we have retinoid receptors and retinoic acid receptors. When the correct type of retinol and concentration is applied to the skin it is converted into retinoic acid. This then has a biological effect by stimulating blood vessels and the production of collagen. Retinol is also an anti oxidant by protecting cells from UV induced cell damage.

It will take more steps to convert retinol palmitate into retinoic acid than it will retinol meaning you would need much larger amounts to achieve a clinically meaningful effect so when buying a retinol always check on the ingredient list to see what you are actually getting.

Avoid buying retinol products in jars as any form of vitamin A is sensitive to light and air. When exposed it will oxidize turning a brownish colour as the product starts to breakdown. Only buy your retinol in a sealed opaque airtight pump.

Only use retinol in the evening. Retinol makes your skin much more sensitive to the sun plus vitamin A is broken down by UV. It is really important you fully cleanse your face the following morning after applying your retinol the night before to remove it fully and apply a broad spectrum physical SPF factor 30 or above.

Using Retinols for the first can make your skin a little sore or red if you don’t start gently and slowly, this is because you are speeding up your cellular turnover and bringing new cells up to the surface much quicker, it’s important to allow your skin to adjust to this new process and not rush it.

Start your Retinol just a couple of nights a week to start with then increase it to every other night on the second week increasing to every night by the third week. This method will avoid any irritation and allow you to use a good high strength Retinol product.

Always go for a Retinol that is micro encapsulated, this means it is drip fed into your skin overnight also avoiding irritation.

I recommend AlumierMD Retinol, there’s no other like it. Available in 3 strengths to suit your skin type and also a retinol eye gel which is specially formulated for the delicate eye area.